Another winner from the famed Lawson’s winery in Wagga Wagga, this beautifully structured wine is, like the bushland it originates from, deceptively flat when first on the palate, but almost immediately an intense, uncompromising, almost dangerous fleshy flavour snakes softly in. This quickly retreats, making room for a more homely, youthful curranty tang which settles itself on the taste buds for quite some time, masking an uncompromisingly warm, smoky, profoundly bushfirey character that emerges later and literally floods the mouth. The fleshy rawness returns, finally, to be dispatched, broken-backed, by a slightly unfortunate doggy aroma. One sip of this wine and you’ll never go droving again! This is a wine to be savoured with a nice leg of lamb, or perhaps even some mutton. Did I mention the colour? A kind of sickly daylight that does little justice to this multi-faceted Australian classic.
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